Day #7, August 1

Miguel, Marce, and I left at 8:30 for Cerro Colorado, a village about two hours away from Cordoba. We were followed by Marce's friend, Andrea and her husband Nestor. Arriving in Cerro Colorado we checked into a modest hotel which looked quite nice next to the other simple buildings in the village.

The five of us found a guide who took us on a walking tour of some rock paintings done by aboriginal people sometime between 1000 and 1600 AD. The paintings were of llamas, and hunters, and even of the conquistadores.

After the tour we drove to Roberto and Aura's haciendo about 4 km out of town. There we would participate in an offering to Pacha Mama (the Inca word for Mother Earth) and then enjoy a gaucho feast. Arriving at the 200 year old ranch we were led out to a site where about 15 people had gathered. Silvia, a homeopathic doctor from Cordoba, would lead the rite. Silvia lit some herbs in a clay dish and blessed each of us with the incense. We then made an offering to Pacha Mama. A hole had been dug in the ground. Each of us took some prepared fruits and vegetables and dropped it into the hole. Someone then produce a bottle of cana liquor (the equivalent of mezqual). We each took a drink from the bottle. After we each took a drink, the rest of the cana was poured into the hole for Pacha Mama.

We returned to the hacienda for a feast of carnitas and cabrito (baby goat) roasted over an open fire. Wine washed down the delicious food.

After we ate Laura (the music teacher) and her husband Nestor took out their musical instruments and the pena began. There was folkloric singing and dancing for the next two hours.

We were then sent to a large brick dome which had been built as an oven to produce charcoal. It would now serve as a chapel for another "new age" rite. Silvia was waiting in the dome. She had us all sit in a circle and then led us in a reflection on sound and chackras.

We returned to the hotel to rest for an hour before the next musical event began. The evening pena took place at the Guardaparques, or park building, in the village. This is the same place we met our guide for the rock paintings tour. The pena began at 9:30.

We ate empenadas, drank wine, and listened to folkloric music. The son of Atahualpa Yupanqui sang, as did Laura and Nestor, and Marcelo, an artist who lives with his family in Cerro Colorado.

While I enjoyed the evening, the Argentinos who were with me were disappointed. They said it was more of a talent show than a pena. A real pena should have everybody singing and dancing - like we did in the afternoon at Roberto's.

We returned to our ice cold hotel rooms at midnight. I threw two extra blankets on my bed and went to sleep.