Day #4, July 29

Marce and I left at around 9:30 to go to her school. This would be the first day back for teachers and students after a winter break. The break was longer than planned due to the H1V1 epidemic as well as an unusually cold winter.

There was a lot of excitement when the students entered, partly due to returning after their break and partly due to having a visitor. I met all of the teachers and visited the classrooms. I was bombarded by questions in broken English and Spanish.

There are two four-hour shifts at the school. One group enters at 8:00 and leaves at 12:00. The other group enters at 1:30 and leaves at 5:30. There is a new group of teachers for each shift, also. It is illegal for teachers to work double shifts, unlike Mexico. As in Korea, students work for 50 minutes and then get a 10 minute break every hour.

I met Marce's principal, Susana. She was very pleasant. I also met Cristina, a teacher who is filling in as a second vice principal while the other one is on leave. The three administrators share an office about half the size of my office. The three sit around one desk.

After the afternoon shift arrived Marce and I left. We went and got a bite to eat then met a friend of hers, Andrea, in the city center. With Andrea we visited a museum in an old Capuchino monastery and the church of Buen Pastor that is run by the Capuchinos. After we went for coffee/tea at a bar located in a new building constructed behind the old facade of a building that had belonged to Miguel's grandfather. Marce and Miguel actually had lived in the old building for a year.

We returned home and had a late cena before going to bed.

Day #3, July 28

After breakfast the group went by taxis to the Ministerio de Ciencias y Tecnologia. There we met with representatives from that ministry as well as from the Ministerio de Educacion. They gave welcoming presentations and explanations about their work. We then gave our presentations - introductions about our schools and our work. Our counterparts (Marce included) joined us at the ministry offices. It all ended with a presentation of welcome gifts by the head of the technology/science ministry.

We all went back to the hotel to get our luggage. Marce and I got a taxi and went to her house. I will be staying in comfortable apartment behind their house. They wanted to give me privacy. It will work well. I met her family: Miguel, her husband, and her two children, Consuelo (15 years old) and Santiago (12 years old). Santiago was very eager to practice English with me. Consuelo, not so eager.

We had a late cena of pasta and wine capped with a traditional drink of Fernet and coke.

Day #2, July 27.

We began our day by taking taxis to the Fulbright office. There we met all of the people we had been in contact with through the internet. Norma Gonzalez spoke to us at length about the state of education in Argentina. She said that she wasn't too concerned about us spending so much time in the schools. She was more interested in us speaking with community members, getting the word out about the importance of funding education.

After hearing presentations about Fulbright in Argentina each member of the group from the USA was asked to give a short introduction. We took group pictures and were then left on our own for lunch.

Since we were in the area where I had stayed with Lois, I knew some places to eat. I led the group to Cumana, a criollo (traditional Argentinian food) restaurant. Everybody seemed to be quite pleased with the choice after we ate.

At 4:00 PM a van picked us up at the hotel and took us to the airport. We flew from Buenos Aires to Cordoba. When we got to Cordoba, Marcela and her family were waiting to welcome me. That was very nice of them since I won't be staying with them until tomorrow.

Another van and Marisol from Fulbright took us to our next hotel, Hotel de la Canada. We went out for cena at a restaurant called La Nieta de la Pancha. It served nuveau Argentinian food in a bohemian atmosphere. It was great.

Day#1 - July 26

I met with the group in the lobby of the hotel. Carina, from the Fulbright office was there to welcome us. She went over the first days of the agentda with us and then introduced us to our tour guide, Monica. Monica led us to a tour van that took us around the city to see some the historical sites, places I had seen before. It was interesting to see the sites with Monica's commentaries as her political perspective was different from anyone else's I had ever spoken with. After visiting the Cemetery of the Recoleta, Monica left us. We walked to a restaurant for dinner. The restaurant was right around the corner from the apartment where I had stayed with my cousin Lois. The hotel was only 5 or 6 blocks from the restaurant. After eating we walked back to the hotel and I collapsed in bed, tired after a long journey.

The group I am with is very diverse professionally. I think we will learn from each other as well as from our counterparts.
1. Hector - a high school principal from NYC. His school is a small options-type school
2. Diane - a superintendent of a small district in upstate NY.
3. Joyce - a high school Spanish teacher in Connecticut.
4. Barbara - a high school Spanish teacher in the Seattle area.
5. Elizabeth - a high school Spanish teacher also from the Seattle area.
6. John - a high school teacher from Hector's school in NYC.
I am the only elementary school person in the group.

Fulbright Administrator Exchange to Argentina - the Journey

I left Chicago on Saturday, July 25th, at 2:00 P.M. Maria H. gave me a ride to O'Hare. I flew to Miami and from there I got a connecting flight to Buenos Aires. I arrived in Buenos Aires without difficulty. I slept well for about 4 or 5 hours on the plane. At the airport there was a little confusion. I was under the impression I would be picked up at the airport. When I got there no one was there. I waited for an hour and decided no one was coming. I then realized I didn't have the name of the hotel with me. No problem, I will look it up in my emails from Fulbright. I went to a Telecommunication Center in the airport. I could sign in to my personal account but not into my school account where I have the Fulbright information. I called my counterpart, Marcela, to see if she knew anything. She did not but was going to try to call people. She had the same problem I did. She only had office numbers of the Fulbright staff and the offices were all closed. What to do! I went back into the internet and played around finding a way to sneak into my CPS account through a "back door". I found the name of the hotel and took a remis (limo) into the city. I checked into the hotel and took a shower before meeting with the group at 1:00 PM.

Day #6 - July 11

After getting my suitcases ready I decided to take one last walk on the beach before heading to the airport. As I crossed the street from the hotel, I ran into Mikeong. She was on her way to the hotel to see me before I left. She came with me on my walk and ended up being an excellent tour guide.

We walked to the APEC House, a place we were scheduled to visit on our first day in Busan but never did. This was a modern structure built on the shore of the Yellow Sea specifically for the meeting of world leaders that was held in 2005. George Bush attended this meeting. He arrived by boat and stayed at the Westin Hotel across the street from our hotel.

We returned to the hotel. I said good-bye to Mikeong and checked out of the hotel. We put our suitcases on the bus then walked to a near-by restaurant for our last Korean meal.

The bus brought us to the airport and dropped us off at 2:30 PM. We left Busan at 4:30 and arrived in Chicago an hour later at 5:30 PM. Time travel!

Day #5 Photos

Day #5 - July 10

When I woke up, I saw that the sun was shining, a change from the previous days of clouds and rain. I decided to walk on the beach before breakfast. I put on my shorts and sandals and walked to the beach across from the hotel. I hiked for about an hour, wading in the water of the Yellow Sea. I watched some young people surfing. It was a glorious morning.

After breakfast we went to another Buddhist temple not far from the hotel - Haedong Yonggungsa Temple. This temple was located on the scenic shores of the Yellow Sea. Our guide commented that this was very unusual as temples are typically located in the mountains. We spent about an hour walking around this serene place of prayer. It was nice to see that it was more a place of prayer than it was a tourist site.

After our visit to the temple we were taken for lunch to the Outback Restaurant for American food. From the restaurant we boarded the bus to go visit the Korean Science Academy - a special science high school for gifted students. As the bus left the restaurant, I realized I had left my backpack at the table. I had my passport, credit cards, cash - EVERYTHING. I had to go back. The bus would not turn around, so I got off and walked back. Luckily, our room had not been cleaned yet. My pack was sitting untouched exactly where I left it. I grabbed it and walked back to the hotel where I got help finding the address of the Science Academy and then took a cab to the school. I arrived about 20 minutes after my group had arrived. Not bad!

The school was incredible. It partners with Northside College Prep in Chicago, so the students are of that calibre. We visited many different labs and spoke with students.

From the Korean Science Academy we went to the Busan Science Institute. This is like a cross between the Chicago Children's Museum and the Museum of Science and Industry. There are many interactive exhibits for students and teachers are also able to come for training in science education.

We went to the wharf to visit the Fish Market. This was an impressive expanse of fish vendors located inside a new market building. Being late in the afternoon, what we saw was mostly live fish in aquariums or in buckets. I would imagine that in the morning there are gutted fish out for display and sale. In front of the market people sat eating plates of raw fish and bottles of soju. I was tempted to try it, but our guide advised against it.

We went for dinner at a special chicken restaurant walking distance from the Fish Market. We were served chicken soup. Each of us received a cauldron of boiling soup with a whole cornish hen in it. The soup was delicious!

We returned to the hotel and a group of us went up to the 22nd floor lounge for drinks before calling it a night.

Day #4 Photos

Day #4, July 9

Today we were tourists. The group was thrilled that we didn't have to wear "dress-up" clothes. We got on the bus and took a 1.5 hour drive out of Busan to Gyeongju. This is a historical agricultural area where people are actually living and working. The countryside was beautiful. Tree-covered mountains in every direction. It is encouraging to see that this country with such a large population maintains green space. People live "on top of each other" in urban areas, but then have open green space close at hand where they can retreat to for peace and relaxation. The buildings in Gyeongju are maintained in the orginal style, with curved tile roofs. The government requires that any new construction or remodeling maintain the traditional style.

Our first stop was to the Bulguksa Buddhist Temple. This temple was built about 1500 years ago. It is located in a beautifully serene setting with large pines all around. There were several finely painted temples on the grounds, each containing an image or images of the Buddha. Our guide explained that the Buddha is not considered a deity. He is rather a model of someone who lived his life in an exemplary way and whom we should strive to be like - much like our saints. Each of the individual temple buildings had a "helper", a woman who stayed on the premesis to pray and make sure that the space was respected.

We next went to the Seoakri Gobungun Tombs Park. From the outside this looked like a huge, green pasture with large 75 foot mounds protruding out of the ground. The mounds resembled the burial mound in Cahokia. Each mound contains one body and the relics buried with the body. The mounds date back to about the 3rd - 7th centuries. Most of them predate Buddhism. They know this, because the bodies were not cremated. One tomb was opened and we were able to walk inside. The interior was very simple - rock and wood, nothing as elaborate as the Egyptian pyramids.

We went out for lunch at a Korean restaurant. A vegetable and beef "stir fry" was prepared for us on propane stoves sitting on our tables. Tasty!

We finally went to the Gyeongju National Museum. This is an anthropological museum that displays many of the relics found when the burial mounds were excavated. This includes gold crowns and belts and well as a variety of utensils and clay vessels. I especially enjoyed a new exhibit hall they had display an array of images of the Buddha.

We drove back to Busan. We were given an hour rest before we left for dinner. I made the mistake of lying down and closing my eyes. I went out cold and didn't wake up until someone from my group called to see why I wasn't at the bus yet.

For dinner we went to a traditional Korean barbecue. A pit of hot coals was on each of our tables. Fresh meats were brought to us and we grilled it at our tables. The usual assortment of Korean condiments was given to us to accompany the grilled meat. Delicious!

After dinner a group of us went out again for kareoke. Went back to the hotel by midnight.

Day #3 Photos

Day #3, July 8

On day three we visited a special education school for the severe and profoundly disabled. It was a school of over three hundred apparently junior high aged children. We began our visit by being received by the principal in his room with the two rows of over-stuffed chairs facing each other. This seems to be standard furniture in every school we visited. After greeting us and talking to us about his school, the principal brought us to an assembly hall where all of the students were waiting for a performance of a group of musicians who play traditional Korean instruments. The students were also waiting for us! We stayed for the musical performance. I was impressed by how the music engaged the children. Some who seemed spastic, moved in rhythm to the music. Others who needed to move were allowed by the adults to get up and dance or move freely to the music.

I am curious as to what criteria are used to place students in this school. When I visited the Gumjeong Elementary School I noticed a few students with Downs' Syndrome in the general education classrooms. They seemed to be as disabled, or more, than some of the students I saw in this special school. What determines if a child goes to a "special" school as opposed to a "general" school?

We were next taken to the Global Village. This is an educational facility built for the sole purpose of teaching English. Every student in the sixth grade is required to spend part of their school day in the Global Village. Not only are there classrooms, but also simulation areas for experiential learning. We observed students on an "airplane" learning the vocabulary necessary to travel.

We were taken to lunch to an Asian buffet. I ate lots of sushi - kinds I had never seen before.

After lunch we went to the Busanjin market. This reminded of the market in Chilpancingo - floors of vendors selling everything you can imagine. Outside the market people sat on the sidewalk selling produce and fish. This mix of modern and traditional so reminds me of Mexico. I was late getting back to the group because I couldn't find the stairwell that went to the fourth floor. I finally made it when I was paged over the intercom and one of the vendors grabbed me and led me to the stairs.

We went for dinner to another high scale Chinese restaurant in a hotel overlooking the ocean and the Gwangan Bridge. The food was great. We were the guests of several school superintendents. At the end of the meal we all sang Arirang, a Korean song we had been practicing all day on the bus.

We returned to the hotel and a group of us went out for karoeke.

Photos from Day #2

Day #2, July 7

The rains have arrived to Busan with a fury. Torrential rains began in the early morning hours and continued throughout the day. The Busan natives say it is the kind of rain they get about once a year. How nice that we could be hear to enjoy it!

Today we would do our school visits. The rain made traveling to the schools extremely difficult. Jeongim and Mijeong came to pick Debbie Clarke (AP of Peterson) and me up to take us to their school, Gumjeong Elementary School. It took us over an hour to get to their school because of the rain - a trip that would normally take 20 - 30 minutes.

We were greeted like "rock stars". Professionally made banners welcoming us hung over the entrance of their grounds as well as in the entrance to their building.

We met briefly with the principal and then were whisked off to the broadcasting room where we would do a schoolwide greeting to the 1,200 students of the school.

The students ran all of the broadcasting equipment. The room was not special to this school. Every school in Korea has a "state of the arts" broadcasting room. It looks just like a television news set. We were welcomed by the principal, gave a greeting, and received gifts.

We were taken to a room to hear a performance by the traditional Korean drum group. About 20 students participated in the group dressed in traditional costume.

We took a tour of the entire school visiting most of the classrooms. The students were prepared with questions and anxious for our visit.

We were then taken out to lunch. The principal invited us to a traditional Korean meal of bosum, or leaf wraps. We went to a resaurant where the group was given its own room. We took off our shoes before entering the room and sat on mats on the floor around a low table. Soon a multitude of dishes came out: soups and platters with meats, sea food, vegetables, and leaves. We used the leaves as the base, putting the other ingredients on top and then popping them in our mouth. It was delicious - flavors I had never experienced before. This restaurant was famous for its duck. I agreed that it was quite tasty.

I was so moved by the welcome we received at this school that I commented to Jeongim, "So, this is what Asian hospitality is all about!" She quickly corrected me, "No, this is what KOREAN hospitality is all about. Korean etiquette is very distinct." She might be right.

Finishing lunch we returned to the school. By then we were receiving frequent calls from the second school wondering why we hadn't arrived. We visited a few more classrooms at Gumjeong and then Jeongim and Mijeong drove me to the next school, Kwangmu Girls Middle School. This is where Heesun Kang teaches. Debbie went to another school.

There was no grand reception at Kwangmu. The principal and her enterage received me in her office and gave me a prepared welcome and description of her school. She had several questions for me about my school. After speaking with the principal I was led to a classroom where a group of young women (English students) was waiting for me. They had several questions for me. I was also able to present my Power Point which we were asked to prepare in Chicago. I was impressed by how good the girls' English was and also by the depth of their questions - very critical thinkers.

The principal of Kwangmu, without my knowing it, had asked Jeongim to stay and give me a ride back to the hotel. It was actually the principal's responsibility, but Jeongim in her gracious and generous manner accepted. I returned to the hotel exhausted. Our group ate at the hotel Chinese restaurant again and then I went to my room for the night.

There is a tremendous emphasis placed on education here. There is high level technology in every classroom in every school that I visited in Busan. Instead of chalkboards or whiteboards, teachers use the computer to project their lessons on large screen TV's. Each classroom has one. Teachers are trained to use the technology plus there is a full-time "webmaster" in each school to support technology. If world power were measured by the educational might and not military might, the USA would be eating the dust of South Koreans. We are definitely not a super power in terms of educational resources.

One thing that Korean schools do not have to deal with is diversity. I did not observe any non-Koreans in the schools and classrooms we visited. We asked the principals and teachers about language and cultural diversity in the schools. Those we asked said that there is minimal and students that speak another language are required to study Korean after school. The school system does not provide for their needs. There does not seem to be the stark socio-economic differences in Korean culture and schools, either. This homogeneity should make education of "the masses" just a little easier.

I have one lingering question: is what we saw in Busan representative of the entire country? Are rural schools as well-equipped as city schools?

Day #1 - July 6, 2009

Ted with Dr. Seol, the Busan Mayor of Education.

Enjoying dinner at Alexander's in Busan.

We arrived at 03:40 in Seoul. Our group met with a group of three women from New York and New Jersey who would be part of the delegation visiting Busan. We all boarded our flight to Busan at 08:20 and arrived one hour later.

We were warmly greeted by Lee Malsook and Hyulmi Kim, both supervisors in the Busan Department of Education. They led us to an awaiting bus and we were shuttled to our hotel and assigned rooms. The hotel is magnificent. It is the Haeundae Grand Hotel and is located on the coast. All of us have individual rooms overlooking the Yellow Sea.

At 1:00 we met for lunch at a hotel restaurant, Marlinsung. This is a very high end Chinese restaurant. We were served course after course of fine dishes that I had never tried before.

Next on the agenda was to go to the Busan Metropolitan City Office of Education. There we met in the board room with the Chief Education Officer, Dr. Seol Dong-Geun. We received an official welcome as well as gifts from his department. Dr. Seol, as well as other representatives from his department, made the presentations.

After the official welcome, we left to go for dinner. On the way to the next restaurant the bus stopped at Songdo Beach to allow us to get out and look around. This is a quaint little beach with shops selling seafood and locals swimming in the sea. Some of us walked a trail up a hill to a beautiful overlook - shaped like a pagoda with intricately painted designs.

To keep the group on schedule we were put back on the bus at 5:40 so that we could arrive at our dinner place by 6:00. Dinner would be at Alexander's Restaurant, which serves European-style food. It was built of logs resembling a European chalet, but the interior design was very eclectic with everything from old saxaphones and electric guitars and medival swords and shields.

Here I committed my first minor "fashion faux pas." Thinking that formalities were finished, Scott Ahlman and I took off our suit coats and ties. It was so hot and humid. Soon we discovered, however, that Dr. Seol was hosting the dinner and was joining us to eat along with the other important men from his department. Some of the other Korean men were without jackets and ties, but not Dr. Seol. I would have felt more comfortable dressing to his level.

We were served delicious steak dinner. The meat was very smooth. I was impressed by how Dr. Seol went from table to table serving wine to each guest - not once, but several times. What hospitality!

We were back to the hotel just before 8:00. I crashed in bed almost immediately. Our first day in Korea felt like it had been three days without rest.

Safe Arrival

I write from the Seoul Airport. Our flight was smooth and relatively comfortable. We flew west, up through Alaska, across to Russia and down into Asia. The flight crew was very attentive - like flying used to be. Our meals were decent. For dinner I had my first Korean meal - bi- bim- bab. A vegetable and rice dish mixed with pepper paste and some oil. The meal even came with instructions on how to mix the food and add the accompanying condiments. Well, I better get things put away. We will be boarding the plane for Busan any minute now.

Packing for Korea

Packing for my trip to Korea is going to be a challenge. I usually travel very light, but "doing favors" is going to change that. One of the Korean teachers left me about 50 pounds of old books for me to transport to Korea for her. They wouldn't fit in her suitcases. How could I say "no"? Then I have to bring gifts for my hosts and the students of the schools I will visit. I will have a little room for clothing. I have to be creative in that department. What can I pack so that it doesn't look like I am wearing the same clothes every day even though I really am? I'm usually pretty good at that. Having formal dinners to attend almost every evening complicates things a little. The good thing is I will be returning with almost empty suitcases!